1956 Corvette. Photos by author.
(Editor’s note: This first appeared, in modified form, in the April 2007 issues of Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car. It’s still sound advice, which is why we’re reprinting it here.)
There seems to be some real confusion among many people in the collector-car hobby as to what makes an original car original.
Webster’s definition of the word original is, “An authentic work of art, literature, or the like, as distinguished from a copy or reproduction.”
The key word there, of course, is authentic, which in and of itself means, “Having an undisputed origin; genuine.”
Yet the definition of the word genuine sums it up best, “Actually possessing or produced by the alleged or apparent attribute, character, or source; not artificial.”
The word artificial means, “Made in imitation of something natural.”
Now that we have a clear understanding of the meaning of the word original and its associated terminology, let’s apply it to old cars.
Detail of 1956 Corvette.
First and foremost, an original car is a vehicle that has been kept exactly the way it was when first built by its manufacturer – we’re not comparing its condition, only its state of originality. An original car, regardless of its age, make, model or country of origin, still wears all of the same parts that the factory workers bolted on to it when it rolled along the assembly line during its manufacture. This also implies that it still wears the paint that the factory painters applied to its body; it still wears the upholstery, carpet, headliner and convertible top that the factory upholsterers stitched for it; it still wears its original chrome trim that the platers dipped in the vats of chromium; it still wears all of its original mechanical parts including engine, transmission, differential, suspension, brakes and electrical. That’s original.
1923 Model T Ford.
And if a car is to be labeled “100% Original” then by all means it should be 100% original, and that includes having the original tires and spare, the original spark plugs and ignition wires, the original generator or alternator, the original water pump and starter motor, the original wiper blades and wiper arms, and the original exhaust system. All the wearing items that get discarded during routine maintenance should be on the car for it to be legitimately labeled a “100% Original.” About the only components that original fanatics will agree to close their eyes to are the brake shoes/pads and non-original batteries as it’s kind of hard to keep a battery alive for more than 10 years. Oh, and tires, too, but that’s about it.
The reason for all this is that all too often I have been either shown or told about cars that we may be interested in featuring in one of our car calendars or in one of our magazines that are allegedly 100% original, only to discover that they have been completely restored, partially restored or, in extreme cases, even modified. Thus the need for this clarification.
Detail of 1923 Model T Ford.
If a car has been completely restored to its factory-correct specifications using all of its original parts, that car is not original. It’s a Restored Original.
If a car is unrestored apart from only a fresh coat of paint, that car is not original. It’s a Repainted Original.
If a car is unrestored, but it’s wearing aftermarket wheels, has glued-on body side moldings and the windows are tinted, that car is not original. It’s a Modified Original.
Point is, as soon as any one part is replaced, repainted or replated, a car’s originality becomes compromised. There are all different levels of originality, and one is not any less desirable than the other. But the truth is.
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